The question of whether non-Indigenous individuals can wear First Nations fashion has sparked considerable debate. To gain insight into this topic, conversations were held with 20 First Nations Knowledge Holders from Tarntanya/Adelaide, Naarm/Melbourne, and Warrane/Sydney. Their perspectives illuminate the complexities surrounding ally wear, highlighting a balance between respect, intention, and genuine support.
Understanding Ally Wear
Many Knowledge Holders express that wearing clothing designed by First Nations artists can foster solidarity and support First Nations businesses. Brands such as Clothing The Gaps have been recognized for their ally-friendly approach, distinctly marking which designs are accessible to everyone and which are exclusively for First Nations people. As one Knowledge Holder stated, “If a First Nations person has created these forms of fashion and has not declared that it’s exclusive to First Nations people, then I think that it’s fine for allies to wear it.”
Positive reception of ally wear often hinges on the context and intent behind it. Wearing items that feature the Aboriginal flag or supportive slogans is generally viewed favorably, provided the wearers are respectful and informed. One Knowledge Holder emphasized the importance of visibility: “I don’t think wearing the flag and showing support in that way is wrong… Especially since the No referendum, it’s comforting to see where your allies are.”
Concerns and Criticism
Conversely, not all Knowledge Holders feel positively about ally wear. Some express that wearing First Nations fashion can seem superficial if it is not accompanied by genuine support for First Nations rights and sovereignty. One Knowledge Holder articulated this sentiment: “Part of me is like you couldn’t give us a Referendum, but you’ll use our place names… you want to use our fashion.”
There is also frustration regarding forced displays of support, such as those seen in sports contexts. During the AFL’s Sir Doug Nicholls Indigenous Round, some Knowledge Holders pointed out that mandatory jerseys could feel insincere. “Half of them probably don’t even love black fellas but they’ve got to wear it otherwise they’re not playing,” one remarked, highlighting the disconnection between forced displays and authentic allyship.
Furthermore, the term “blakwashing” has been introduced to describe instances where organizations adopt Indigenous fashion as a mere marketing strategy without enacting meaningful change. As one Knowledge Holder succinctly put it, “It’s only negative when they’re just wearing it… to say that they support Indigenous, then they do the opposite.”
The discussions indicate that the question of wearing First Nations fashion is not straightforward. Many Knowledge Holders acknowledged that while frequent displays might feel excessive, they do not consider them inherently offensive. Instead, the appropriateness of ally wear largely depends on the context, intent, and the wearer’s understanding of the cultural significance behind the fashion.
Guidelines for Genuine Allyship
Knowledge Holders consistently emphasized that true allyship involves more than just a purchase; it requires respect and understanding. To navigate the complexities of wearing First Nations fashion, they provided several guidelines for potential allies:
1. **Purchase from First Nations Businesses**: Seek out companies certified by trusted organizations such as Supply Nation, Trading Blak, or the Indigenous Art Code.
2. **Look for Clear Labelling**: Identify whether a design is intended for all or exclusively for First Nations people. If the information is unclear, reach out to the brand for clarification.
3. **Learn the Cultural Context**: Take the time to understand the story behind the garments, including their cultural significance and history.
4. **Educate Yourself on Broader Issues**: Familiarize yourself with the challenges surrounding First Nations fashion, including cultural theft, appropriation, and stereotyping.
Ultimately, becoming an ally involves demonstrating genuine respect, standing in solidarity, and actively supporting First Nations causes. As articulated by the Knowledge Holders, being thoughtful and reflective about one’s intentions is crucial. “It’s a matter of being self-reflective about what you’re doing and why you’re doing it,” one concluded, underscoring the importance of a mindful approach to allyship.
The insights gathered from these conversations highlight the nuanced nature of ally wear in First Nations fashion, offering a framework for non-Indigenous individuals to engage respectfully and supportively with Indigenous cultures.
