UPDATE: Split, Croatia is undergoing a remarkable transformation this winter, as locals and visitors rediscover the city without the bustling summer crowds. Boris Cerina, a Splićanin residing in Melbourne, has returned to his hometown for the first time in years during the off-peak season, revealing an enchanting side of Split that many miss during the summer rush.
Cerina shared his thoughts during an exclusive interview, highlighting the unique atmosphere that defines Split in the winter months. “Split in winter lives its own kind of winter dream,” he stated, describing the serene streets and the calm that envelops the city as shops close and life slows down.
What’s New in Winter? This winter, the city center appears almost deserted, with many boutiques shuttered and replaced by restaurants that thrive in the summer yet retreat into hibernation during colder months. The bustling markets still offer a taste of local life, but the tranquility of winter provides a stark contrast to the chaotic energy of summer tourism.
Cerina emphasized the stark differences between summer and winter visits. “The peace and quiet fit perfectly into the holiday spirit,” he remarked, noting that the absence of heavy crowds allowed for a more intimate experience with the city’s historical sites, including the iconic Diocletian’s Palace. “Walking through the Palace without the usual summer crowds is breathtaking,” he added.
Advent Season Highlights The Advent season in Split surprised Cerina with its vibrancy this year, featuring a series of concerts and celebrations that culminated in a spectacular New Year’s Eve performance. He noted that it was “the most exciting and well-rounded Advent program in the past twenty years,” showcasing local talent and drawing crowds to the Riva.
Cerina’s winter experience also included exploring cultural hotspots like the Archaeological Museum and the Meštrović Gallery, enriched by the absence of the usual summer tourists. “You can truly capture everything without a single person in the frame,” he explained, reflecting on the joy of photography in a less crowded environment.
Weather and Gastronomy The weather during his visit was pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 14 to 18 degrees Celsius, perfect for enjoying the local tradition of “fjaka,” a laid-back approach to life characterized by sipping coffee and watching the world go by. He also indulged in winter gastronomic delights, including salt cod and traditional fritule, a type of fried doughnut.
Cerina’s visit to the newly developed Žnjanski Plateau, a popular promenade, highlighted the city’s growth and evolving landscape, promising an ideal space for walking and cycling once completed.
Advice for Winter Visitors For those considering a winter trip to Split, Cerina offers compelling reasons: “Cheaper flights, fewer crowds, and lovely weather are just the start.” He encourages visitors to experience the rich Advent festivities and the illuminated city streets, making winter a surprisingly attractive time to visit.
As Split continues to charm both locals and tourists alike this winter, Cerina’s heartfelt reflections showcase a side of the city that is often overlooked. “Winter on the Mediterranean with sunglasses and fjaka,” he describes, capturing the essence of his enchanting experience.
This winter, Split is not just a destination; it’s a dreamlike escape waiting to be explored.
